![]() If your product spends some time (namely circa month and more) stored somewhere, please make sure you use leather conditioner (readily available in your local shoe or DIY stores) before taking the product on an event again, because after that long while of idleness, the material may be prone to undesirable cracks. This is especially applicable to belts because they are worn in the most “personal” manner. Let’s elaborate intelligibly:īest method of caring is to actively use the products. Our holsters, munition satchels and sword-belts are made from high quality vegetable tanned leather and the staining and subsequent oiling is done with natural agents, and as such they necessarily require some maintenance. If you get any rust spots, you should be able to easily clean them with an abrasive sponge. You can also wax the lock to make it more rust resistant, but I find that oil works sufficiently well. To oil the lock, simply spray it and use a rag to wipe excess oil. I personally use Silkal, which is silicone based. You can use any kind of anti-corrosive technical oil, the seal in the piston is leather, which doesn’t degrade in oil, like rubber does. This prevents rust and ensures that the mechanism operates smoothly. The most important part of the maintenance of our blasters is keeping them well oiled and lubricated. The lock might tear out, if there’s unreasonable leverage on it and it’s very likely to damage any larp weapon it gets hit with. While the blasters are relatively hardy, don’t expose them to needless stress, like dropping them on the ground or using them to stabilize a table. Therefore be careful when brandishing it in crowded situations. They are solid steel, much like most of the barrels, so while accidentally shooting someone will be harmless, hitting them with the blaster definitely won’t be. ![]() The locks on the blasters are not connected to the mechanism itself and they don’t move when shooting. A broken core unfortunately cannot be repaired. The color of the weapon can be restored or changed with paints made for plastics. We personally recommend Loctite Super Attak Power Flex gel, which fills up and strengthens the crack in about 10 minutes. If you tear the foam of the weapon, you can repair it with a high-quality flexible superglue. The cross guards however can get deformed with extreme bending over longer periods, when they are for example put under luggage in the trunk of a car or in a chest. Our cross guards are made of hard rubber and do not mind blows in combat, they bend slightly but return immediately. Also, pay attention to the potential sharp edges of your own gauntlets, as some can cut into cross guards or other parts of the hilt when fencing. Make sure to avoid long term compression of the eapons, especially during storage. Try to avoid substantial blows to edges of armor, especially things like swordbreakers. Avoid cutting the weapons with sharp objects, likewise do not hit hard or rough objects, like rocks, benches or trees.
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